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Day 29 - July 6

(A) I’ve been looking forward to today for quite a while. Today is the day that we took a canal boat down the Monmouthshire & Brecon Canal. We arrived at the Goytre Wharf in time for me to receive a bit of tutoring, and then we hit the water!

We motored southward to Mamhilad for 2 hours at a bracing 4 mph. After passing under several bridges and past several other boats (without incident), we tied off our boat and had lunch at the Star Inn. It was about as charming a pub as a person could hope for, and the steak & ale pie was very fine.

We had called ahead and made a reservation in Mia’s name, which they were nice enough to write on the side of our silverware caddy. We noticed that well-behaved dogs are welcome in the Inn, and a patient and attentive terrier was seated across the room from us. Also, notice the little container on my plate — that’s full of gravy, which is pretty good on top of peas and chips.


As if the pub weren’t enough goodness for a little town, across the road is a St. Illtud’s Church. On one side of the church is a lovely, old cemetery, with most of the headstones dating back to the 1800s. But the oldest thing by far on the church grounds is the Mamhilad Yew… a tree that experts reckon is between 2,000 and 3,000 years old.

Think about how old that is. Think about all the people who would have regarded that tree as a fixture throughout the whole of their lives. A tree that endures through so many generations of humans must have seemed nearly immortal, and it’s no wonder that trees like this were venerated.


Several weeks ago, when I booked this boat trip and learned about the Mamhilad Yew, I read a wonderful article about the tree by Tim Hills. I sent him an email via the Ancient Yew Group, not really sure if he would get it (or if he was even still alive). To my delight, he wrote back and agreed to meet us at the church today. Alas, he wasn’t able to join us, for reasons that he shared with me a few days ago, reasons which are perfectly understandable and acceptable. I remain grateful for his willingness to meet and talk with us. And if I might beg indulgence from those of you who have seen me share this already, I’ll offer up a few of Mr. Hills’ words about the Mamhilad Yew…


“The yew would remain. Imperceptibly its form would change as the centuries passed. But amongst those who viewed it there would always be some who shared a common insight – that pervading our transitory life is an eternity in which, strangely, the mortal may have a part. The perceptive receive that revelation still.“


I guess I’m left thinking this: I don’t know if eternity is ours to experience first-hand, but I know that we can catch glimpses of it from time to time. I’m going to try and catch as many as I can.



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